Hello guys ! Today I want to talk about fashion, but in a different way than usual. Indeed, most of the time when bloggers write about fashion its mainly about trends ( such as my last post in the fashion category ), ideas of looks… But it more rare to see articles about the point of fashion, the state of the fashion industry, its challenges and so on. I am concern about the future of fashion in its globality. For exemple, the sustainability of the fashion industry, but also how workers are treated etc… Those topics will probably be the subject of other articles, today it’s about the pace of the fashion industry which is overwhelming for designers, but also for the consumer.
Since around 6 months, big houses such as Dior, YSL or Lanvin have seen their artistic director leaving because the pressure was too high. Alber Elbaz was the first in a row of many designers. He left Lanvin because of a divergence of opinion with the CEO of the brand, but it was also due to the fact that he didn’t recognized himself in the current sate of the fashion industry. He loves designing, creating, and showing clothes to the world, but he didn’t like the fact that it has become business more than anything else. New collections are not only for S/S and F/W, there are resort collections, cruise collections ( lastly the Chanel one in Cuba ). The goal is to make profit, to create wearable clothes to respond to the growing demand.
With social networks, we are able to watch fashion shows wherever we are, and we want the pieces as fast as possible. This has become the « see now buy now » issue. In the end, designers don’t know how to create because they need inspiration, and it’s not humanly possible to create a hundred of looks per year. Quantity has become more important than quality, but quality is one if the asset of the luxury industry.
Is luxury becoming common ?
Raf Simons, who were admired for his work at Dior, complained about the pace of the industry. He had to do more, more and always more. It’s a huge pressure for him but also for the seamstresses. Customers want always more, but in the other hand they are lost. Every clothes look alike, no matter the brand, we want to consume but in the end we don’t even know what to buy.
The last who left is Heidi Slimane, who was working for YSL. He was appreciated in the industry for his refreshing collections, more youthful and rock&roll. YSL’s sells were growing up again. But he left eventually because it was such a struggle to create collections which meant something.
In this mass medias, mass consumption world, we are loosing our identity. Designers can’t be creative on demand. Inventing, designing, drawing… these are things you can’t buy. We ask always more, always unsatisfied by what we have. A House has a DNA, and it’s loosing it. The fashion industry is feeding this demand, and after complaining. It’s a circle, and somehow it will have to stop.
Clothes are supposed to represent who we are, to make us feel confident. They are a way to express ourselves by wearing them, and a way for designers to express themselves by creating them. But among this quantity if collections, everything is loosing its sense, its essence. Brands don’t have this « thing » that meant something, they don’t take stand, like YSL and the tuxedo for women. It was a big step at the time because women were seen as inferior as men, but with clothes they were able to emancipate and embrace themselves. Now, there is not such equivalent, and it’s a shame.
Fashion is not a superficial world, to represents trillions of dollars, millions of jobs, and every one wears clothes, so it doesn’t matter if you like this field or not, you are in it anyway. We need fashion to take stands again, even if it means reducing its pace, and doing less collections than it actually does. When we see a look on the catwalk we want to be able to interpret it, to understand it, not to be lost during the show because there are too many looks and we don’t even have the time to watch one than the other is already there.
I love fashion, and this article is not a critic, it’s the feeling and the fears of someone who cares, and hopes that tomorrow the industry will have the positive impact on the society it’s supposed to have.